How to Build a Dry Skin Routine
Keep it simple and get your skin on the path to a hydrated, happier future.
How is your skin feeling today: calm and bouncy or tight and itchy?? If you picked the latter, you may be dealing with dry skin. Don’t worry—parched or rough skin isn’t something you need to battle for the rest of your life. With a little TLC and the right products, you can defeat it, or at least deal with it effectively.
You’ve probably got some questions, like which products to use, what to stay away from, and how to incorporate a retinol into your routine without it wreaking havoc on your complexion. Ahead is a complete guide to building a dry-skin routine, which we put together with advice from a few trusted dermatologists. They’re here to share their wisdom and best product recs to help you stock your shelves and soothe your skin.
What actually is dry skin?
According to Sejal Shah, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, xerosis—or the formal medical term for what you’re experiencing—happens when skin lacks the necessary factors (like lipids) to maintain a healthy skin barrier. Without these essential components, the barrier becomes less effective at retaining water and keeping irritants out, Dr. Shah explains, and soon you’ve got the perfect recipe for “thirsty” skin.
For starters, you’ll likely notice a rough, flaky, or scaly texture; peeling; dullness; or even cracking if the dryness is particularly severe, says Dr. Shah. In general, the skin feels uncomfortable, whether irritated or tight, so you’ll know if something is wrong.
Dry skin and dehydrated skin are not the same thing, though they sound similar and their symptoms can overlap, says Dr. Shah. The former is defined by a lack of oils, where your skin barrier is thirsty for fats that make skin feel hydrated, bouncy, and happy. Dehydrated skin, she explains, is about a lack of water. This is “generally considered a temporary skin condition and can happen to any skin type, even oily skin,” Dr. Shah adds. “For example, someone can have oily but dehydrated skin, which may look oily while still feeling tight or uncomfortable.” Dehydrated skin is typically caused by dry air, harsh skin care, or the weather.
The basics of dry skin
Dry skin usually manifests as a skin type rather than an occurrence, like a breakout; however, it can also be caused by weather (dry air, frigid temperatures), lifestyle elements (regular swimming in chlorinated pools or high indoor heating), hormonal shifts, and aging. Caren Campbell, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in San Francisco, says dryness often becomes more common as you age “because the skin produces less oil and sweat and loses some of its ability to hold onto moisture.” In addition, women and smokers are also more likely to deal with dryness.
It’s typically a bit easier to address this particular skin challenge on your own, versus conditions like rosacea and acne, but call your derm if you’re noticing severe or persistent dryness, says Dr. Campbell. Very itchy, cracked, or red skin could be a cry for help—and moisture! Dry skin may also be linked to skin and medical conditions like eczema, psoriasis, thyroid disease, diabetes, and other concerns, Dr. Campbell adds. In short, if your skin feels atypical or raises an internal red flag, give your derm a call or schedule an appointment.
The foundation of a dry-skin routine
Your daily routine doesn’t need to be very complicated to work well, says Dara Spearman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Fort Wayne, Indiana. Simple can be just as effective as a 10-step routine—if not more so. It’s all about nailing the basics: cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen. Ingredient-wise, look for products formulated with barrier-repairing ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and squalane, which all help lock in moisture, Dr. Spearman advises.
“For dry skin, less is often more,” says Dr. Shah. “Focus on gentle cleansing, barrier-supporting ingredients, and consistency rather than constantly adding more products.” Dr. Campbell agrees: “A simple routine works well for most people,” she says.
And how do you know when your skin is adequately hydrated? According to Dr. Spearman, it will look smooth and slightly plump with a healthy shine—the sign of a happy, moisturized complexion.
Cleanser
“Gentle” is the key word with the first step of caring for your dry skin. “Harsh soaps and strong foaming cleansers can strip away the skin’s natural oils and make dryness worse, so choose a gentle, soap-free cleanser instead,” says Dr. Campbell. In the morning, reach for your cleanser or simply rinse the skin with water, then proceed with a hydrating serum or essence (if desired), moisturizer, and SPF. Easy peasy!
You don’t need to spend a ton on your cleanser; gentle cleansers are easy to find at the drugstore, like La Roche-Posay Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Cleanser, which Dr. Shah says is “a great everyday option for dry and sensitive skin because it cleanses without stripping away too much of the skin's natural moisture.” Very dry-skin types may want to try a cleansing oil like Avène XeraCalm Lipid-Replenishing Cleansing Oil, which replenishes lipids while washing away the day.
La Roche-Posay
Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Cleanser
Avène
XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Cleansing Oil
Neutrogena
Hydro Boost Hydrating Gel Cleanser
If you prefer a less creamy, more “traditional” cleanser, try Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hydrating Gel Cleanser, a lighter-weight gel that won’t strip skin but still gives you that “freshly washed” feeling.
Moisturizer
Moisturizer is the MVP of your routine, for obvious reasons, but which option should you choose? As with cleanser, you don’t need to shell out a big chunk of your paycheck to get a quality moisturizer; derms are quick to point out that the drugstore is a great place to start, and that what works for your best friend may not work for you (and vice versa). “The key is that there isn't necessarily one universal ‘best’ moisturizer,” says Dr. Shah. “The ideal product depends on how dry the skin is and what else is going on.” Adds Dr. Campbell, “the best moisturizer is one that feels comfortable enough to use consistently.”
Instead of fancy packaging or a luxe price point, focus on what’s inside the bottle, tube, or jar. “The ingredients I look for fall into three main categories: humectants [like hyaluronic acid or glycerin] to attract and hold water; emollients [like ceramides or squalane] to soften and smooth the skin; and occlusives [like silicones, petrolatum, shea butter] to help reduce water loss,” explains Dr. Shah. “The ideal moisturizer should include all three, as they work synergistically.”
For very dry skin, Dr. Shah says, “one of the most effective and time-tested ingredients is petrolatum because it's an excellent occlusive and helps significantly reduce transepidermal water loss.” (Petrolatum is what you find in classic Vaseline Petroleum Jelly, for example.) Dr. Campbell seconds that, saying, “Petrolatum, or petroleum jelly, is one of the most effective ingredients for reducing water loss from the skin.”
Vaseline
Petroleum Jelly (3-Pack)
CeraVe
Moisturizing Cream
Dr. Shah is also a fan of the classic drugstore fave CeraVe Moisturizing Cream for its blend of three ceramides and hyaluronic acid. “The ceramides help restore and maintain the skin’s protective barrier, while hyaluronic acid helps the skin attract and retain moisture,” she says. “Its thicker texture makes it particularly useful for skin that feels tight, rough, or flaky.”
Mildly thirsty skin types can stick with a cream or lotion versus a heavier formula. Another drugstore go-to is Vanicream Enhanced Moisturizer, which is formulated for sensitive skin but versatile enough for other skin types too. Dr. Shah also likes First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream, which soothes and moisturizes irritated skin with colloidal oatmeal, squalane, and glycerin. For more mature-skin types, Dr. Campbell is a fan of SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore for its barrier-supporting lipids and triglycerides.
Vanicream
Enhanced Moisturizer
First Aid Beauty
Ultra Repair Cream
SkinCeuticals
Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2
SPF
As always, you must finish your daily skin-care routine with SPF 30—at a minimum! There are plenty of broad-spectrum sunscreens to choose from, including some formulated specifically for dry skin. Sunscreen is a non-negotiable step, no matter the weather; think of regular application as an easy investment in your future skin health. CeraVe’s AM Facial Moisturizer SPF 30 is a forever favorite of many Allure editors and writers (this one included) because of its accessible price point and multitasking formula. For a lightweight, almost watery option with soothing colloidal oatmeal, First Aid Beauty’s Hydrating Sunscreen Milk deserves a spot in your routine.
CeraVe
AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30
First Aid Beauty
Hydrating Sunscreen Milk
What to avoid if you have dry skin
Your skin should be treated with tenderness, so avoid harsh soaps and super-foamy cleansers, says Dr. Campbell; these can strip away natural oils and exacerbate dryness. She recommends fragrance-free formulas for anyone who has sensitive or very dry skin, as they are typically gentler than scented formulas.
The main rule is not to overdo it—and we’re not just talking about toners or active ingredients like glycolic or salicylic acid. “The biggest issue is often not a single ingredient, it's doing too much, too often,” says Dr. Shah.
That could be frequent showers or showering in extremely hot water, over-exfoliating or over-cleansing your skin, using retinols too aggressively, or using alcohol-heavy products, which can be especially drying, explains Dr. Shah. “People with dry skin don't necessarily have to avoid every active ingredient,” she adds, “but they should be careful with anything that can further compromise the skin barrier.”
Extra credit
People with dry skin are often leery of retinoids and alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids, given their reputation for stressing out the skin. But you can add them to your routine, as long as you do so gently and carefully, says Dr. Spearman: “I recommend starting slowly with a gentle retinol just two or three nights a week and applying it to completely dry skin. Follow with a hydrating moisturizer, and if you tend to be especially sensitive or dry, you can even apply moisturizer before your retinol.” Give your skin time to adjust with a gradual approach—baby steps are best here!—and increase use as your skin adapts.
The same goes for products with AHAs and BHAs: Slow and steady wins the race. Dr. Spearman recommends a lower concentration of acid and using the product just once or twice per week, followed by a hydrating moisturizer to support the barrier. “You know you’ve overdone it if your skin starts feeling tight, burning, or looks red and irritated,” she says. If so, stop using the exfoliants and let your skin take a breather.
As we inch closer to winter, which can cause an uptick in dryness or make it worse, consider making a few small adjustments to your daily routine to strengthen your skin for cooler air. Dr. Shah recommends keeping baths and showers short and lukewarm rather than hot, which can remove natural oils from the skin. Pat wet skin instead of rubbing it, then apply moisturizer while skin is slightly damp. Resist the urge to over-exfoliate during the winter, she says, and consider placing a humidifier in your bedroom to replenish lost moisture due to indoor heating.
You may want to switch to richer, creamier products for winter, too, she says: “A cream is usually better for dry skin than a lightweight lotion, and you can apply it more than once a day if your skin feels tight.” For especially rough areas, Dr. Shah suggests layering petrolatum or another similar ointment on top of your moisturizer for more hydration.
And don’t forget your hands and lips! Incorporate rich hand creams and lip balms to fight cracking and chapping.
Meet the experts
- Caren Campbell, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in San Francisco.
- Sejal Shah, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
- Dara Spearman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Fort Wayne, Indiana.
Onward to more skin-care advice:
Originally published by allure.com. Syndicated material does not necessarily reflect the views of Vogue British.
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